Camera Settings

I agree Craig - it is/was a useful rule, especially in helping to understand the relationship between aperture, shutter speed and iso and as such is certainly good knowledge to have. Something us "oldies" used to use in manual film days before we even had a light meter! But, I have to ask, why pay hundreds of pounds for a camera that is to a large extent a hi-tech computer that works these things out for you, generally more accurately? Much of the cost of the camera is for doing that.

They may be high tech , in fact they're damned good , but they're still not quite at the stage where they can think like we can. Sometimes you have to know things like how exposure works and make your own decisions based on that knowledge.

I don't disagree at all with what you say  Gallatas..It's just I think the original questions were about best settings to get started. It's ok for someone experienced who understands all of  the inter relationships between aperture, DOF, Bokeh, iso ,ev, shutter speed etc but until you do and in fact afterwards in my opinion it is best to set the camera on aperture priority, wide aperture, when you walk out the door and then make those other adjustments when the situation requires it and you fully understand what the tweaks will do, otherwise it can seem overly complicated to a beginner.

Dave

www.flickr.com/.../dcweather

my.opera.com/.../blog

I agree Dave and your pictures are proof mate

Neil

www.flickr.com/.../neilhigginson

Hi Dave,

The reason I mentioned the f16 rule was to get an understanding of how modern cameras work.

Of course these setting are achieved automatically by the camera itself but it's handy to know how and why the camera selects these settings and of what use they can be in wildlife photography.

For example my Nikon will give me a meter reading that sometimes is either too light or dark means adjusting the aperture up or down to compensate. These little tricks are achieved over time when you become much more familiar with your own kit.

That's precisely my point. You need at least a basic knowledge of how stuff works to be able to use it properly. Otherwise you might as well stick your camera on automatic and leave it at that. Not that there's any shame in using automatic ; as someone else said , you've paid good money for that technology. Whatever gets you the results is fine.

As I say, nobody is wrong here. It is just widely accepted and quoted for good reason that aperture priority is the favoured initial setting for the camera for bird shots, which of course is completely different from automatic. This applies when telephoto lenses are used because the rate limiting step is always a fast enough shutter speed to prevent camera shake and/or subject movement, bar none. Every other setting is perfectly legitimate for a specific problem or effect that is trying to be achieved. Anyway, some good advice all round and I'm sure those less experienced will learn and find their favoured techniques.

Happy shooting!

Dave

Pray explain how Aperture priority limits the shutter speed. It controls it but doesn't limit it.

Apologies Gallatas but I wouldn't want this thread to appear like a disagreement between us at the expense of useful advice to others. I will just answer your question but allow the others to do their own thing.

Of course aperture priority doesn't limit shutter speed. That isn't the same as a "rate limiting step". A rate limiting step is one that if it isn't right, nothing else will have a beneficial effect. If the shutter speed is not sufficiently fast to prevent camera shake, nothing else will help. As I keep saying, with aperture priority, set to the max (widest) aperture as a start up point, the fastest possible shutter speed is guaranteed. It still won't be any good if it is too dark but it is still the fastest possible (well given iso speed could be increased). So a bird flies out, in a split second you focus and shoot. You will have the least chance of blur and the greatest chance of a decent shot that you could have in that instant  without further touching the camera settings (see later) although of course it still may not be fast enough. You could work back and know that with that lens you need at least 1/200sec and set that in shutter priority. But you may get a small aperture which is rarely desirable in bird photography. I emphasize again that this is a starting point to get a shot. With experience you may have had time to adjust the EV for backlight, or make other manual adjustments to get a better shot, like those you have alluded to, which of course you will do when you have had time to look at the first shot and/or assess the situation.

I will add no more but best wishes to you and everyone enjoying the wonderful wildlife and photographic opportunities at Rainham and elsewhere.

Dave

Well Guys,

What can I say! The information you provided has given me more than I hoped for. As you can see from one of my previous posts, I have had some reasonable results in Manual and I must say, I enjoyed fiddling about with the settings and in turn I was able to understand what the camera was doing. I have had some success with Aperture Priority, but I will make an effort to use it more.

Many thanks