If you're looking for a place to bird, walk with family or just calm the spirits this New Year, then I know a place. RSPB Buckenham Marshes ticks all three of those boxes; I genuinely couldn't rate it high enough. On those clear, icy winter mornings the low-slung solstice sun refreshes the landscape with a golden glow. In the heights of summer the cloudless plains seem to go on forever, terminating only at the esteemed Cantley Beet Factory. Even on those harsh misty mornings the yodelling of thousands upon thousands of migrating geese fills the air with a cacophonous atmosphere. The whoosh of wings or mere serenity of the reserve can lift the spirits. But for birding, this place goes above and beyond. In this article I'll tell of Buckenham's rare and lesser-known species, and how to find them.
Russian white-fronted goose
This is an incredible migrant, migrating all the way from Arctic Siberia to spend winter in the UK. Unfortunately they are now extremely rare, confined to just a handful of floodplains and marshes, with a population of around 1000 birds. Buckenham is a precious haven - 300 are found most years. These geese are easy to identify because of a white "flash" on the face, conspicuous from some distance. At long range when this pale daub is not visible, whitefronts can be told by an overall ashy-grey body and small size.
It takes great skill and knowledge of habits to find one, however it is possible. They typically feed far out on the freshmarsh near the railway line halfway to Cantley, so bringing a telescope can be useful. Often the birds roost behind dense swards of grass or in ditches, making prolonged observation a bit of a chore! Once found though they are certainly worth it. The only way I can describe this is like finding a needle in a haystack, but the needle is made of diamonds!
Water pipit
Credit Murray Smith
The water pipit is, in my eye, by far and away the best pipit. By far our rarest, low hundreds are found every year in the UK in suitable habitats. As the name suggests these birds can be found near any waterbody, but prefer to occupy muddy edges to saltmarsh or wet grazing marshes inland. Because of their invertebrate diet they have evolved very slender bills and long feet to probe the mud for midges or fly larvae. As for the plumage, it varies considerably throughout the year, but in winter follows the general pipit theme of drab olive-brown, flecked with soft off-white and buff tones. Distinctive features to split this delightful species from more common pipits are: a strong pale supercilium, mainly clean "snowy" white underparts with little to no streaking, dense black marks on the chest, and white tail-corners. The most commonly mistaken species is the meadow pipit, due to it having a similarly bold supercilium, but can be told by warmer brown / gold tones and more extensive streaking. The rock pipit is also extremely similar, but has denser dark markings on the underside and lives only in coastal saltmarshes or seaweed-strewn shorelines.
According to RSPB, 190 water pipits spend the winter in the UK; this species doesn't breed here, but is a migrant from northern continental Europe. Norfolk and East Anglia are favoured locations, unsurprising given their easterly migratory route. This year at Buckenham two have been picked out of flocks of the resident meadow pipits, and have been moving between here and Strumpshaw Fen for the past two months. Unfortunately getting good views has been challenging - believe me, I've looked many times! - so expect flight views. With a perseverant mind and a bit of time on your hands, they can be a real treat to watch! If you're lucky and are gifted the sight of one on the ground, they can be very tame indeed if you stay still. In my experience they have been most obvious when at Fen Hide, where they are alone and thus easier to identify.
Flight identification is even more difficult, but can be done in two (relatively) simple steps. Firstly, listen out for the distinctive call, sometimes audible even from within flocks of other calling pipits. It is a slurred, high-pitched 'srreee'. Rock and meadow pipits give a more distinct call without such a slur, but separation from rock can be almost impossible at times without visual characteristics. In flight, there are a couple of things to be looking out for that can help to split from rock (once meadow has been eliminated by call). White bars on the wings and tail-sides, a warm brown back and, most importantly, the clean white belly are crucial points to confirm this rare winter visitor. Good luck with the search - finding one is very rewarding!
Caption: a water pipit in flight can be told by white tail-sides and a clean white belly. Oscar Lawrence
Chinese water deer
Now, I know what you're thinking....this isn't a bird!
But the Chinese water deer holds a special place in the rankings of my favourite wildlife, and I feel it is much underappreciated. These denizens of the marsh slip under the radar, but Buckenham is in fact the best site in Britain to see them. An adorable mammal, they have distinctive rounded ears, and a wiry golden coat that blends on with the reeds. The males have not antlers, but gleaming white tusks protruding from the upper jaw, but in my mind these only add to the 'teddy bear' appeal! On the average winter day at Buckenham I see at least ten or maybe more; this place is a real haven for the mammals and I never walk away without having seen them.
Water deer tend to hide in marsh-grasses for long periods asleep, but when they are awake they are extremely active! They bound around the open fields through the sea of wildfowl without a care in the world, and that carelessness gives them charisma. They are such awesome animals, and I encourage you to search for them when you get a chance. Though, all things considered, not much searching is required!
Caption: the wonderful Chinese water deer - Oscar Lawrence
I wish you well this New Year and hope you enjoy time at Buckenham Marshes RSPB. You might just find a wealth of wildlife waiting there.