Although South Stack is most often thought of as synonymous with the bustling sea-cliff breeding sites, the reserve also encompasses a fantastic swathe of heathland (the largest area of maritime heathland in North Wales, in fact!) and, as I have been finding out, nestling in and around this bushy landscape lies not only some wonderful wildlife, but also some fascinating examples of Anglesey’s ancient heritage, waiting as a reward for exploring a little off the beaten track…
Even if you are here for just a short visit, you don’t have to go further than a stone’s throw to be able to step deep into the past. Starting at the lower RSPB car park for example, a grassy track opposite leads to the Ty Mawr hut circle settlement. This atmospheric spot hosts the remains of around 20 stone buildings of various types.
Although Roman coins and artifacts have been discovered there during excavations, the early origins of the site actually date back to the Late Neolithic or Early Bronze age, and parts of it are 4,000 years old! There is evidence that people who lived there farmed the land, but also supplemented their diet with seafood such as limpets. It’s a really interesting and evocative spot to include in a trip to the reserve area, and boasts a lovely view of Snowdonia to boot. It’s just a short stroll from the road – look out for the signpost and CADW information board (Grid Reference: SH214821).
For those visitors up for a more challenging walk, the trail up to the top of Holyhead Mountain gives the chance to explore the remains of the hilltop fort of Caer Y Twr. The fort encloses an area of just under 7 hectares with a stone wall about 4m wide and 3m high, where best preserved. Although originally built in the Iron Age, this strategic defensive site was later used by the Romans, who built a watchtower to be able to signal by semaphore to a legionary fortress at Chester via a chain of other towers in-between.
The foundations of the watchtower, located at the highest point of the mountain, and many of the ramparts that encircle the peak are still visible today, and certainly bring added interest to what is already a stunning walk that also provides beautiful views over Holyhead harbour and across Anglesey to the Snowdonia mountain range (Grid Reference: SH218829).
A further feature to look out for on a ramble to the north of the reserve are the remains of the Bronze age burial cairn on a ridge on the side of Holyhead Mountain overlooking Gogarth Bay (Grid Reference: SH214828). Its a striking location for a ceremonial place, and you may even spot seals in the bay below! All the trails across the mountain are well-worn, and some form part of the Anglesey Coastal Path, signposted with the path emblem.
Be warned that some of the paths are steep in places and good footwear is recommended, but the views and sense of achievement are well worth the effort, and the criss-crossing network of trails means you can pick and choose your own route and level of difficulty.
Taking the time to explore the heathland parts of the reserve also gives the chance to enjoy this special area that we manage for the bounty of wildlife that lives on, in, and under it – stonechats, choughs, silver studded blue butterflies, and adders for example, not to mention the glorious colours of the gorse, heather and other wildflowers in spring and summer.
So why not come and discover our heathland treasures, and take the opportunity to seek out the hidden traces of the past that our birds gaze down on as they swoop and soar over the mountainside… Some of the websites below have excellent birds-eye view aerial photos of the area that show off the archaeological features, and I shall be posting some photos on the South Stack gallery shortly to give you more of a taste of what you can see on the ground.
Happy exploring!
For more information on Ty Mawr Hut Circle and Caer Y Twr, try these BBC websites: -
http://www.bbc.co.uk/wales/northwest/sites/celts/pages/tymawr.shtml
http://www.bbc.co.uk/wales/northwest/sites/celts/pages/caer_y_twr.shtml
There is also a mine of information about archaeology in Wales on the Cadw and RCAHMW (Royal Commission on the Ancient and Historical Monuments of Wales) websites – click on the links below for information and pictures of the South Stack archaeological features mentioned above:
http://www.coflein.gov.uk/en/site/93839
http://www.coflein.gov.uk/en/site/308080/
http://www.coflein.gov.uk/en/site/275609
http://www.coflein.gov.uk/en/site/403437/
http://www.cadw.wales.gov.uk/default.asp?id=6&PlaceID=35
CADW also publishes a ‘Guide to Ancient Monuments on the Isle of Anglesey’ in its Welsh Historic Monuments range, and the Lighthouse ticket office next to our café sells an excellent range of books on the archaeology, geology and history of the Island if you would like to discover more about this wonderful area.
Part-Time People Engagement Team Administrator and full-time Good Egg!