The RSPB, in partnership with National Geographic Pristine Seas and the Tristan da Cunha Government, is currently undertaking a joint marine research expedition to Tristan da Cunha. This remote UK Overseas Territory in the South Atlantic is home to some incredible and little-known wildlife, from albatrosses to whales, penguins to sharks, and we are visiting in order to help the community design a Tristan-lead and science-based regime for protection for their rich waters. Further blogs will follow over the coming weeks! Story by Jonathan Hall, Head of UK Overseas Territories Unit, RSPB
We have arrived! Exactly seven days and one hour after leaving Cape Town, our National Geographic Pristine Seas – RSPB expedition ship has reached Tristan da Cunha, the most remote inhabited island in the world. The cry went up at lunchtime that land could be seen off the bow on the horizon, and a stampede to the open upper deck quickly followed. Even at 60 miles away we could see the 2,000m+ tip of the conical Tristan volcano, one enormous island suddenly punctuating a seemingly endless flat ocean and rising above the clouds.
A dazzling white mist soon settled in, so we got closer and closer to the island, knowing it was out there but unable to see anything. How could such an enormous island volcano disappear? The Tristan islanders on board seemed to have a sixth sense as to when it would suddenly come into view however, all seven of them appearing on deck pretty much exactly when the coastline began to emerge from the mist.
Three Tristanians who have been getting a lift home with us look out to see their island home loom out of the mist. Photo credit: Jonathan Hall, RSPB
Upon dropping anchor we were swiftly met by a bargeful of Tristanians, keen to immediately unload their neighbours and welcome them home. Cranes swung, the people-carrying ‘cage’ was lifted down onto the barge, and excited chatter commenced.
Tristanians ably guide the people-carrying ‘cage’ down onto their barge. Turns out boats are also like London buses- Tristan doesn’t have a boat arrive in ages, then three come along at once! In the background is one of two UK frigates who also arrived today. Photo credit: Jonathan Hall, RSPB
The scene got even bigger as we went ashore, with 75+ people there lining the harbour to welcome back the various families who had been away - a fantastic scene of hugs and smiles. It was then straight into the thick of it, as the Island Administrator had been holding a garden party for the visiting UK naval frigate and her crew, so we were whisked straight up to help finish the canapés, catch up with our local conservation partners and have a welcome drink on their lawn under the fluttering Union Jack. A late supper of fresh Tristan lobster and hand-cut chips from Tristan’s famous potatoes completed a wonderful evening ashore.
Insert photo of ships from shore. Caption: Two UK military vessels dwarf our expedition vessel (in foreground) as we look out to sea from the gardens of the Residency, the home of the Island Administrator. Photo credit: Jonathan Hall, RSPB
The entire 270-person community lives in the single settlement, called ‘Edinburgh of the Seven Seas’, and it sits on an old lava plain flowing out from the side of the volcano’s sheer cliffs. This morning the rest of the expedition team joined us. After a happy hour exploring the winding lanes and meeting the huge number of friendly sheepdogs, we headed to the Council Chamber to meet the Island Council to introduce ourselves in person, thank them for inviting us, and to seek permission to begin research. The team hails from all over the world and it was great to be able to demonstrate the international expertise which we are bringing in to help support the local community to develop a Tristan-lead and science-based marine protection regime for their vast 750,000km2 marine zone.
The Tristan Island Council (seated) receiving the team. Photo credit: Jonathan Hall, RSPB
Introductions made and permission to proceed kindly granted, it was straight back to the boat and action stations - diver surveyors and the underwater camera team heading off in one direction, deepwater drop cameras and floating pelagic camera arrays in another. We’ve also just welcomed on board Trevor Glass, Head of Tristan Conservation Department, and James Glass, Head of the Tristan Fisheries Department, plus some of their team, who are going to be joining us for the next three weeks and guiding us as we explore their incredible island home. It all looks very well set!
Further blogs to come, and you can also follow updates from the field on the National Geographic Pristine Seas blog http://voices.nationalgeographic.com/2017/01/13/tristan-da-cunha-expedition-preparing-the-team-protecting-the-islands/