I have a 24-105 f4 lens, a 200 f2.8 lens and a 300 f2.8 lens but no macro lens. As it stands i'm not really sure that I want a macro lens as when I'm out and about I am usually looking for bigger wildlife than bugs and stuff and will usually have the 300 with a 1.4 tc and perhaps the 24-105 in a pocket if there is a landscape opportunity.
So my question is would there be any benefit in getting a couple of extension tubes and carrying those about for those occasions when I get all bug eyed. I realise that I wont get anything like the magnification of a dedicated macro lens but its not the cost factor that is putting me off a macro lens, its pocket space and amount of usage.
Thanks in advance,
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OK, had a quick play, so here are some results...
Adding a 12mm tube lops ~ 5" off the minimum focus (measuring the distance in front of the lens, not the official MFD)
Adding a 20mm tube lops ~ 6" off.
Adding a 38mm tube lops ~ 8" off. At this point, the minimum focus point is only a couple of inches in front of the lens, so becomes a bit impractical. However, you can certainly use the combination when wandering around, just don't expect to get really close. I found most flies I could get to ~6" of and good results are certainly possible. This is @f/4 (cos I forgot to close down the aperture!)
That's cropped from this image (it's on the wheelie bin lid if you're wondering about the blue background)
There are caveats though - AF with the 38mm tube is a bit iffy - it hunts a fair bit & is annoying. I found the 20mm tube much better in that regard and I'd probably use that to avoid the frustration. With that 20mm tube, MAX focus distance is around 2ft - the 38mm you're only around 12". That 20mm tube loses you around a stop of light too (the 12mm around a half stop, the 38 best part of 2 stops). This is with the 5D4 body. I'll do some more walkabout shots with the 20mm combo later if I can, see what other results I can get
A couple of full frame (if lo-res) images here - the no-tube version was at minimum focus (actually, a fraction inside, which is why the subject flower is just a teensy bit OOF - blame the wind!). The 20mm tube version was not quite at minimum focus (if you have the Mk1 lens I do, it was on the 0 of 0.7m, just before the "macro" marking). It gives you an idea of the gain you can get by moving closer with the tube. Shot with the same aperture & shutter speed, the Auto-ISO chose 1000 for the no-tube version & 1600 for the tube version (so around 2/3 of a stop in this example).
I should have mentioned earlier, I've been using 105mm for all this
In reply to Whistling Joe:
Whistling Joe said:
Thank you very much, you're a star. Looks like they will make some difference without taking up a whole pocket so will put them on my birthday list . If I ever decide to go for a dedicated macro lens they won't become redundant .
In reply to Bobs_Still_Retired:
Bobs_Still_Retired said:so will put them on my birthday list
Definitely worth having in the kit bag :-) The good news is that with no glass in them, you don't have to worry about non-Canon ones and can settle for a more reasonably priced set. I've a couple, a cheapy eBay set and a branded Kenko. The Kenko I got when I experimented with tubes on the Big White - I just felt too uncomfortable hanging several thousand pounds on the back of something that cost £5 from eBay! At the time of purchase, I compared the Kenko with Canon ones in the hand, the build quality & construction appeared identical (not that the cheapies are bad). The only thing to check is that the ones you get have the electrical connections (they're just a straight through connection, no electronics). Some sets don't have those connections so AF wouldn't work
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